Tudor vs Rolex: Are They Really That Different?

Tudor and Rolex share the same founder, the same foundation ownership, and decades of shared DNA. Yet one costs three times more than the other. The question collectors constantly ask: is the Rolex genuinely three times better, or is Tudor the smarter buy?

The answer depends entirely on what "better" means to you, and understanding the real differences between these brands requires looking beyond marketing narratives.

This guide examines:

• The actual ownership and manufacturing relationship
• Movement technology and what differs between the brands
• Build quality, materials, and finishing at each price point
• Value retention and total cost of ownership
• Which buyers should choose each brand

The Ownership Reality

First, let's clarify the relationship that confuses many collectors.

Question	Answer
Does Rolex own Tudor?	No. Both are owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation
Are they the same company?	No. They operate as separate entities with independent management
Do they share facilities?	Partially. Headquarters in Geneva are shared, but manufacturing is separate
Do they share movements?	No. Tudor movements are developed and produced by Kenissi
Do they share parts?	Not anymore. Modern Tudors use entirely Tudor-specific components

Hans Wilsdorf founded Rolex in 1905 and registered the Tudor trademark in 1926. His vision was straightforward: create a more accessible brand that maintained Rolex quality standards at lower price points.

For decades, Tudor achieved this by using Rolex cases, bracelets, and crowns combined with third-party movements. Vintage Tudor Submariners from the 1950s through 1990s were essentially Rolex cases with ETA movements inside.

That relationship ended definitively in 2015.

The Modern Split: Two Separate Companies

The Tudor you buy today bears almost no manufacturing relationship to Rolex beyond shared ownership.

Era	Tudor's Relationship to Rolex
1926-1969	Used Rolex cases, crowns, and bracelets with third-party movements
1969-2015	Gradually developed independent identity while still sharing some components
2015-2021	Launched in-house movements via Kenissi; still assembled at Rolex Geneva HQ
2021-present	Fully independent manufacturing at Tudor's Le Locle facility

Since 2021, Tudor watches are manufactured, assembled, and tested at Tudor's purpose-built facility in Le Locle, Switzerland. This 10,600 square metre factory handles everything from movement assembly to final quality control.

The facility is physically connected to Kenissi, the movement manufacturer that Tudor founded in 2016 and majority owns (with Chanel holding a minority stake). Kenissi now supplies movements to Tudor, Breitling, Chanel, TAG Heuer, Norqain, and others.

The key point: Tudor is no longer manufactured by Rolex. They share heritage and ownership structure, but operate as completely separate watchmaking entities.

Movement Comparison: The Technical Reality

This is where the brands diverge most significantly in approach.

Tudor Movements

Tudor's current movements are manufactured by Kenissi to Tudor's specifications.

Movement	Used In	Power Reserve	Certification	Magnetic Resistance
MT5402	Black Bay 58, Ranger	70 hours	COSC	Silicon hairspring
MT5400	Black Bay 58 Bronze, 925, 18K	70 hours	COSC	Silicon hairspring
MT5602	Black Bay 41 (pre-2023)	70 hours	COSC	Silicon hairspring
MT5602-U	Black Bay 41 (2023+), others	70 hours	COSC + METAS	15,000 gauss
MT5652	Black Bay GMT	70 hours	COSC	Silicon hairspring

Key specifications across Tudor movements:

• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
• Silicon hairspring (antimagnetic)
• Free-sprung balance with adjustable weights
• Bidirectional winding
• Full balance bridge design

Rolex Movements

Rolex manufactures all movements entirely in-house at their Bienne facility.

Movement	Used In	Power Reserve	Certification	Magnetic Resistance
3230	Submariner (no-date), Explorer	70 hours	COSC + Superlative	~1,000 gauss (Parachrom)
3235	Submariner Date, GMT-Master II, Datejust	70 hours	COSC + Superlative	~1,000 gauss (Parachrom)
3186	Older GMT-Master II	48 hours	COSC + Superlative	~1,000 gauss (Parachrom)
3131	Milgauss	48 hours	COSC + Superlative	1,000 gauss

Key specifications across current Rolex movements:

• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
• Parachrom hairspring (paramagnetic, not fully antimagnetic)
• Chronergy escapement (15% more efficient than standard)
• Bidirectional winding with optimised rotor
• Full balance bridge design

Movement Comparison: What Actually Differs

Specification	Tudor (MT5402/MT5602-U)	Rolex (3230/3235)
Power reserve	70 hours	70 hours
Frequency	28,800 vph	28,800 vph
Hairspring	Silicon	Parachrom
Magnetic resistance	15,000 gauss (METAS models)	~1,000 gauss
Escapement	Standard Swiss lever	Chronergy (proprietary)
Balance bridge	Full	Full
Certification	COSC (or COSC + METAS)	COSC + Superlative Chronometer
Accuracy standard	-2/+4 sec/day (Tudor spec)	-2/+2 sec/day (Rolex spec)

The honest assessment:

Tudor's METAS-certified movements actually exceed Rolex specifications for magnetic resistance: 15,000 gauss versus approximately 1,000 gauss. If you work around MRI machines or strong magnetic fields, Tudor's newer movements offer better protection.

Rolex's Superlative Chronometer standard (-2/+2 seconds per day) is tighter than COSC's -4/+6, but Tudor voluntarily holds their movements to -2/+4. In practice, both keep time accurately enough that you'd never notice the difference in daily wear.

The Chronergy escapement is a genuine Rolex innovation that improves efficiency, but the practical benefit is already captured in the 70-hour power reserve, which both brands now achieve.

Neither movement is objectively "better." They're different engineering solutions achieving similar results.

Case and Build Quality

This is where Rolex's price premium becomes more tangible.

Materials

Component	Tudor	Rolex
Case steel	316L stainless steel	904L Oystersteel
Bezel insert	Aluminium (most models) or ceramic	Cerachrom ceramic
Crystal	Sapphire (domed on BB58)	Sapphire with Cyclops
Caseback	Solid steel (most) or exhibition	Solid steel
Crown	Steel with Tudor rose	Steel with Rolex crown, Triplock system

What 904L steel actually means:

Rolex's 904L steel (which they brand as "Oystersteel") is more corrosion-resistant than standard 316L and takes a higher polish. The difference is subtle but real: 904L maintains its finish longer in salt water and humid environments. It's also harder to machine, contributing to higher production costs.

Tudor's 316L steel is the same grade used by Omega, IWC, and virtually every other luxury brand. It's excellent material that will serve you well for decades.

Finishing Quality

Aspect	Tudor	Rolex
Brushed surfaces	Good consistency	Exceptional consistency
Polished surfaces	Good	Mirror-perfect
Transitions between finishes	Clean	Laser-sharp
Bracelet link tolerances	Slight play acceptable	Minimal play
Crown action	Smooth, reliable	Exceptionally smooth with distinctive sealed feel
Bezel action	Excellent (60 clicks)	Excellent (120 clicks)

The honest assessment:

Examine a Rolex Submariner under a loupe and you'll struggle to find any finishing flaw. The brushed surfaces are uniform to an almost obsessive degree. Transitions between brushed and polished areas are knife-edge precise.

Examine a Tudor Black Bay under the same loupe and you'll find excellent finishing that occasionally shows minor inconsistencies: a brushing line slightly off-angle, a polished edge marginally less crisp. These imperfections are invisible to the naked eye and irrelevant to the watch's function.

Is Rolex finishing three times better than Tudor? No. Is it noticeably better under magnification? Yes. Does it matter in daily wear? Not really.

Model Comparisons

Tudor Black Bay 58 vs Rolex Submariner

The most direct comparison in both brands' lineups.

Specification	Tudor Black Bay 58 (79030N)	Rolex Submariner (124060)
Case diameter	39mm	41mm
Thickness	11.9mm	11.4mm
Lug-to-lug	47.5mm	48mm
Water resistance	200m	300m
Bezel	Aluminium, 60 clicks	Cerachrom ceramic, 120 clicks
Movement	MT5402	3230
Power reserve	70 hours	70 hours
Crystal	Domed sapphire	Flat sapphire with Cyclops
Retail price	S$6,000	S$12,350
Secondary market	S$3,500-4,000	S$13,500-15,000

Design philosophy:

The Black Bay 58 is intentionally vintage-inspired. The domed crystal, gilt dial accents, and 39mm case reference Tudor dive watches from the 1950s. It's designed to look like it has history.

The Submariner is designed to look timeless and contemporary. The flat crystal, sharper case lines, and 41mm size reflect modern tool-watch aesthetics.

Tudor Ranger vs Rolex Explorer

Specification	Tudor Ranger (79950)	Rolex Explorer (124270)
Case diameter	39mm	36mm
Thickness	12mm	11.5mm
Water resistance	100m	100m
Bezel	Fixed, polished	Fixed, polished
Movement	MT5402	3230
Power reserve	70 hours	70 hours
Dial	Matte black, Arabic numerals	Black with 3-6-9 Arabic, luminous markers
Retail price	S$4,600	S$9,650
Secondary market	S$2,800-3,200	S$9,000-10,500

Design philosophy:

The Ranger emphasises utilitarian tool-watch heritage with a fully matte, brushed case and no-frills dial. It's deliberately understated.

The Explorer balances sportiness with subtle elegance through polished accents and the iconic 3-6-9 dial layout. The 36mm size makes it exceptionally versatile.

Tudor Black Bay 41 vs Rolex Submariner

A closer size match than the BB58 comparison.

Specification	Tudor Black Bay 41 (7941A1A0RU)	Rolex Submariner Date (126610LN)
Case diameter	41mm	41mm
Thickness	13.6mm	12.3mm
Water resistance	200m	300m
Bezel	Aluminium, 60 clicks	Cerachrom ceramic, 120 clicks
Movement	MT5602-U (METAS certified)	3235
Power reserve	70 hours	70 hours
Date display	No	Yes, with Cyclops
Retail price	S$6,700 (bracelet)	S$13,500
Secondary market	S$4,200-4,500	S$14,000-17,000

The refreshed Black Bay 41 from 2023 represents Tudor's most technically advanced offering: METAS-certified movement with 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance, slimmer case profile, and new T-fit clasp with on-the-fly adjustment.

Pricing and Value Retention

This is where the brands diverge most dramatically.

Current Pricing (January 2026)

Model	Retail (S$)	Secondary Market (S$)	Premium/Discount
Tudor Black Bay 58	6,000	3,500-4,000	-33% to -42%
Tudor Black Bay 41 (METAS)	6,700	4,200-4,500	-33% to -37%
Tudor Ranger	4,600	2,800-3,200	-30% to -39%
Tudor Pelagos 39	5,750	4,000-4,500	-22% to -30%
Rolex Submariner (no-date)	12,350	13,500-15,000	+9% to +21%
Rolex Submariner Date	13,500	14,000-17,000	+4% to +26%
Rolex Explorer	9,650	9,000-10,500	-7% to +9%
Rolex GMT-Master II	14,200	18,000-22,000	+27% to +55%

Value Retention Over Time

Metric	Tudor	Rolex (steel sports)
Immediate depreciation (buy new)	30-40%	0% or appreciation
5-year retention	50-60% of retail	90-120% of retail
Liquidity (time to sell)	3-6 weeks	Days
Market volatility	Higher	Lower

What this means for buyers:

Buying a new Tudor means accepting significant immediate depreciation. A S$6,000 Black Bay 58 becomes worth S$3,500-4,000 the moment you leave the boutique.

Buying a new Rolex sports model at retail (if you can get one) means owning an asset worth more than you paid. Even grey market purchases at premium prices tend to hold value.

However, this creates opportunity for Tudor buyers. Purchasing pre-owned at S$3,500-4,000 means buying at the watch's true market value with minimal further depreciation risk.

For value-conscious collectors, a pre-owned Tudor delivers exceptional watchmaking at its real price, while Rolex requires either dealer relationships for retail access or significant premiums for immediate availability.

Availability and Purchase Experience

Tudor

Aspect	Reality
Boutique availability	Generally in stock
Authorised dealer availability	Good
Waitlists	Rare, except limited editions
Purchase experience	Walk in, try on, buy
Allocation games	None

Tudor watches are available through Tudor boutiques, authorised dealers, and the secondary market. The purchase experience is straightforward: if you want a Black Bay 58, you can probably buy one today.

Rolex

Aspect	Reality
Boutique availability	Waitlists for popular models
Authorised dealer availability	Requires purchase history
Waitlists	2-5 years for Submariner, GMT
Purchase experience	Relationship-dependent
Allocation games	Common

Acquiring a steel Rolex sports watch at retail requires either existing dealer relationships, significant purchase history, or patience measured in years.

The alternative is grey market purchasing at S$2,000-8,000 premiums above retail, which eliminates waiting but reduces value proposition.

For comparison, see Rolex waiting list times.

Total Cost of Ownership

Beyond purchase price, ownership costs differ.

Cost Category	Tudor	Rolex
Warranty period	5 years	5 years
Recommended service interval	5-7 years	10 years
Authorised service cost	S$500-800	S$800-1,200
Independent service cost	S$250-450	S$400-700
Insurance (annual)	S$35-60 (1% of S$3,500-6,000)	S$130-170 (1% of S$13,000-17,000)

10-Year Ownership Cost Comparison

Component	Tudor Black Bay 58 (new)	Tudor Black Bay 58 (pre-owned)	Rolex Submariner (retail)
Purchase price	S$6,000	S$3,700	S$13,500
Services (2 cycles Tudor, 1 Rolex)	S$1,200	S$1,200	S$1,000
Insurance (10 years)	S$400	S$350	S$1,500
Resale value	(S$3,200)	(S$2,800)	(S$14,000)
Net cost	S$4,400	S$2,450	S$2,000

The counterintuitive reality: A Rolex purchased at retail actually costs less to own over 10 years than a Tudor purchased new, because the Rolex retains (or gains) value while the Tudor depreciates.

However, a pre-owned Tudor at market price offers the lowest total ownership cost while delivering 90% of the experience.

Who Should Buy Tudor

Choose Tudor if:

Priority	Why Tudor Delivers
Immediate availability	Buy what you want, when you want it
Budget constraint	Genuine luxury at S$3,500-6,500
METAS certification	Newer Tudor models exceed Rolex magnetic specs
Vintage aesthetics	Black Bay 58's domed crystal and gilt accents
Value at market price	Pre-owned Tudors offer exceptional value
Rejection of allocation culture	Straightforward, respectful transactions
70-hour power reserve	Same as Rolex, achieved years earlier

Tudor's Weaknesses

Aspect	Reality
Value retention	Significant depreciation when buying new
Brand recognition	Lower than Rolex in mainstream perception
Resale liquidity	Takes weeks rather than days
Finishing	Very good, not exceptional
Steel grade	316L vs Rolex's 904L

Who Should Buy Rolex

Choose Rolex if:

Priority	Why Rolex Delivers
Value retention	Only mainstream brand that reliably holds value
Resale liquidity	Sells in days at predictable prices
Brand recognition	Globally recognised status symbol
Finishing quality	Exceptional, industry-leading execution
Retail access	You have dealer relationships
Heritage	The original that defined categories

Rolex's Weaknesses

Aspect	Reality
Retail availability	Requires relationships or years of waiting
Grey market premiums	S$2,000-8,000 above retail
Value proposition (at grey prices)	Diminished when paying premium
Magnetic resistance	Lower than Tudor METAS models
Innovation pace	Conservative, incremental evolution

Common Misconceptions Addressed

"Tudor is just a cheap Rolex"

False. Tudor was designed as an accessible alternative to Rolex, but "cheap" implies inferior. Modern Tudor uses in-house movements, independent manufacturing, and achieves specifications (like METAS certification) that Rolex doesn't pursue. It's a different product at a different price point, not a cut-rate Rolex.

"Tudor movements are modified Rolex movements"

False. Tudor movements are designed and manufactured by Kenissi, a separate company majority-owned by Tudor. While they share design philosophy (silicon hairspring, full balance bridge), they are not repurposed or modified Rolex calibres. Kenissi also supplies movements to Breitling, Chanel, and TAG Heuer.

"Rolex quality is three times better because the price is three times higher"

False. Rolex finishing is incrementally better than Tudor, but "three times better" doesn't exist in physical reality. The Rolex premium reflects brand positioning, value retention characteristics, and market dynamics, not proportionally superior quality.

"Tudor is a gateway to Rolex"

Sometimes true, sometimes backwards. Many collectors start with Tudor, appreciate the brand on its merits, and never feel the need for Rolex. Others start with Rolex, discover Tudor, and find the value proposition more aligned with their priorities.

"They're made in the same factory"

No longer true. Since 2021, Tudor watches are manufactured at Tudor's Le Locle facility, separate from any Rolex manufacturing. They share headquarters in Geneva for administrative functions, but production is entirely independent.

Pre-Purchase Checklist

For Tudor Purchases

New:

• [ ] Confirmed availability at authorised dealer
• [ ] Understood depreciation when buying new
• [ ] Verified 5-year warranty coverage
• [ ] Inspected watch in person

Pre-owned:

• [ ] Verified authenticity (Tudor counterfeits exist)
• [ ] Confirmed service history
• [ ] Assessed condition against market price
• [ ] Verified complete set (box, papers, warranty card)

For Rolex Purchases

New (retail):

• [ ] Established dealer relationship
• [ ] Understood realistic waitlist timeframe
• [ ] Confirmed no purchase history requirements
• [ ] Prepared for allocation uncertainty

Grey market or pre-owned:

• [ ] Verified authenticity through inspection or professional authentication
• [ ] Compared pricing to current market values
• [ ] Understood premium being paid above retail
• [ ] Verified serial numbers and documentation

For authentication guidance, see 9 costly red flags when buying pre-owned watches. For dealer recommendations, see best watch dealers in Singapore.

FAQ

Is Tudor owned by Rolex?

No. Both Tudor and Rolex are owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, a charitable trust established by Rolex's founder. They operate as separate companies with independent management, manufacturing, and distribution.

Are Tudor movements the same as Rolex movements?

No. Tudor movements are developed and manufactured by Kenissi, a movement maker majority-owned by Tudor. While they share design philosophy with Rolex movements (full balance bridge, antimagnetic materials), they are entirely separate calibres.

Why is Tudor so much cheaper than Rolex?

Tudor uses 316L steel instead of 904L, aluminium bezel inserts instead of ceramic on most models, and outsources movement production to Kenissi rather than manufacturing in-house. These choices reduce production costs while maintaining excellent quality.

Does Tudor hold its value?

Tudor watches depreciate approximately 30-40% when purchased new, then stabilise. Pre-owned Tudor watches at market prices experience minimal further depreciation. Rolex steel sports watches generally hold or exceed retail value.

Which brand is better for everyday wear?

Both are excellent daily wearers. Tudor's Black Bay 58 at 39mm and 11.9mm thick sits comfortably under most cuffs. Rolex's Submariner at 41mm and 12.3mm is equally wearable. Choose based on size preference, aesthetic taste, and budget.

Can Tudor be serviced by Rolex?

No. Tudor watches must be serviced by Tudor authorised service centres or independent watchmakers. Rolex service centres do not service Tudor watches.

Which brand has better warranty coverage?

Both brands offer 5-year warranties on new purchases from authorised dealers. Coverage is comparable.

Is Tudor a good investment?

Tudor watches should not be purchased as investments. They depreciate when bought new and hold value modestly on the secondary market. If value retention matters, Rolex steel sports watches are the better choice. If you want to enjoy a watch without overpaying, pre-owned Tudor offers excellent value.

Will Tudor ever appreciate like Rolex?

Unlikely for current production models. Tudor lacks Rolex's supply constraints and brand prestige that drive appreciation. Certain discontinued or limited Tudor references have appreciated, but this is the exception, not the rule.

Should I buy Tudor if I really want a Rolex but can't get one?

Only if you genuinely appreciate Tudor for what it is. Buying Tudor as a consolation prize leads to dissatisfaction. If you want a Rolex, either wait for retail allocation or pay grey market prices. If you want excellent watchmaking at a reasonable price, buy Tudor because you want Tudor.

MINT Conclusion

Whether you choose Tudor's accessible excellence or Rolex's investment-grade prestige, you're acquiring a timepiece worth protecting properly.

Tudor's S$3,500-6,500 market values still represent significant exposure: theft, loss, or damage means meaningful financial loss that standard home insurance often won't adequately cover. Single-item limits, exclusions for unattended vehicle theft, and depreciated payouts can leave you substantially short.

Rolex's S$13,000-20,000+ values create even greater exposure, particularly when grey market premiums push acquisition costs well above retail. Protecting these values requires coverage that reflects actual replacement cost, not original purchase price.

MINT provides specialist watch insurance designed for luxury timepieces at both price points. Whether your collection features Tudor's value-driven quality or Rolex's appreciating assets, appropriate coverage ensures you can wear and enjoy your watches without worrying about what might go wrong.

For more information, see watch insurance in Singapore and how to insure your Rolex.

Protect Your Watch Collection

Own a luxury timepiece? Make sure it's properly protected. MINT provides specialist watch insurance in Singapore covering theft, loss, and accidental damage worldwide. From $8/month for comprehensive coverage trusted by Singapore collectors.

• Watch Insurance Singapore – Complete coverage guide
• How to Insure Your Rolex – Step-by-step guide
• Dealer Insurance – For watch businesses